2006 TBA No. 4 Chardonnay

In der Nase entfalten sich verlockende Aromen von reifer Marille und duftigem Quittenkompott. Am Gaumen zeigen sich saftiger Pfirsich, aromatische Quitte und Apfelkompott, begleitet von einem Hauch Akazienhonig. Im Abgang bleiben feine Tabaknoten und ein Hauch Birne zuru¨ck, wa¨hrend sich wu¨rzige Kra¨uter und ein salziger Nachhall harmonisch entfalten.

The 2006 #4 Chardonnay Trockenbeerenauslese Nouvelle Vague offers aromas and flavors of grilled pineapple, spiced apple, banana, and orange and vanilla cream. Yet for all of its gaudy side, and its honeyed botrytis and new wood patina, this also displays almost a Burgundian side of its grape, in its notes of toasted hazelnuts and wheat germ. Texturally, though, the impression here is more of juiciness and polish than of creaminess. In a remarkable display of self-sufficiency of which Chardonnay was memorably capable in Kracher’s hands, this multi-faceted elixir remains bright and refreshing, checking its sweetness before residual sugar can throw a blanket over a long finish that is spicy and invigorating.
Kracher TBA No. 4 Nouvelle Vague Chardonnay 2006 (Burgenland, Austria; 100% Chardonnay; 189.8 g/L of residual sugar; 12% alcohol). Fascinating. Peanut brittle. Cordite. Werther’s Originals, which might not mean much outside of the UK – but, essentially, caramel meets butterscotch, with a more creamy mouthfeel and texture. Sorry, I digress! Brandysnaps! A little wild strawberry, which is wonderful and almost a hint of strawberry jam in the process of being made (gently bubbling nice a New Zealand geezer!). This is incredibly viscous in the mouth (we’re at No. 4 and we know there are higher levels of residual sugar, and hence viscosity, to come!) but what is amazing is that what one senses is the salinity, first, and then then freshness – never really the sucrosity. Another truly amazing wine from Kracher. Utterly unique and utterly brilliant. “It’s Chardonnay, Jim, but not as we know it!” (with apologies to Mr Spock from Star Trek). 96. /100 by Colin Hay The Drinks Buisness

93/100 The Wine Advocate / David Schildknecht