2006 TBA No. 4 Chardonnay
The 2006 #4 Chardonnay Trockenbeerenauslese Nouvelle Vague offers aromas and flavors of grilled pineapple, spiced apple, banana, and orange and vanilla cream. Yet for all of its gaudy side, and its honeyed botrytis and new wood patina, this also displays almost a Burgundian side of its grape, in its notes of toasted hazelnuts and wheat germ. Texturally, though, the impression here is more of juiciness and polish than of creaminess. In a remarkable display of self-sufficiency of which Chardonnay was memorably capable in Kracher’s hands, this multi-faceted elixir remains bright and refreshing, checking its sweetness before residual sugar can throw a blanket over a long finish that is spicy and invigorating.
93/100 The Wine Advocate / David Schildknecht
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