2006 TBA No. 3 Rosenmuskateller
The Kracher #3 L2006 is the last wine Luis Kracher served me. It was the end of an evening with family and friends in mid-summer, to which I insisted that each vintner bring just one wine. He could hardly control his excitement about his first crop from the pink-berried Rosenmuskateller, a grape from the Sudtirol (Alto Adige) not even recognized by Austrian wine law (hence its labeling as “non vintage” Tafelwein). Tasting this deep salmon-colored wine blind, I did – and you may well – have a sense of deja vu. Imagine the orange rind, apricot, and pungent herbal concentration of Muscat allied to the brown spices and rose petal of Gewurztraminer, and you’ve got the nose. A sappy and vibrant fruit acid enlivens the palate, levitating and, to a striking extent canceling the effect of 200 grams of residual sugar. This finishes like an infusion of rose petals, black tea, orange rind, and cinnamon stick. It managed to acquit itself quite well against several deserts (200 grams of sugar efficacious after all) but is naturally suited for meditative sipping as well – for how long, no one can really say.
92/100 The Wine Advocate / David Schildknecht
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